Where Few Feet Tread

Jake Crosby explores the often overlooked Richmond Range.

Situated at the top of the South Island the Richmond Range is often overlooked by trampers. Featuring stunning alpine views, native bush and pure New Zealand lakes it is worthy of note. Intrepid's Jake Crosby records his times on the 'Slaty Route'.

The track begins at the end of Serpentine road; we manage to find some shelter from the rain in some conveniently placed toilets and change into our gear. However it turns out the rain is far more pleasant than the toilets and we quickly set off. After crossing a bridge from the car park the track follows the edge of a forestry block for a short while before entering the bush and winding its way towards Hackett Hut. The hut is situated on the far side of Hackett creek, sleeps six, and has a fireplace and a woodshed which is almost as big as the hut itself. Unfortunately there is no roof water and we end up spending the rest of the evening collecting and boiling water.

The rain is relentless overnight, causing Hackett Creek to rise substantially. After some time spent searching for a dry way across we soon discover there isn't one and eventually quit delaying the inevitable and cross the creek. With our now drenched boots we trudge on towards the first ascent of the tramp and after another 10 crossings of the creek the track steadily steepens. Half way up the 1000m ascent we split into two different groups. My group is keen to get the climb over and done with; the other like the idea of arriving at the hut with the fire already boiling for them and agree to separate. Starveall Hut is a welcome sight after a day of climbing in wet boots; the feeling of fresh air on boot drenched feet is one we all savour. Overall Starveall Hut is comfortable and from the toilet it's possible to see all the way to Nelson.

Day three dawns and the weather has decided to take a break overnight, we begin the day with a sharp climb to the peak of Mt Starveall (1500m). From here we get our first real views of the tramp and it proves quite breathtaking; a sea of cloud winds its way through the valleys, with peaks of the Richmond Range triumphantly piercing through toward the sky. From here we follow a long ridge to our next stop - Slaty Hut. Nestled in alpine tussock grass on the edge of the bush, Slaty Hut sleeps six and has its own water supply; we bunk down for a well deserved rest.

From Slaty Hut we climb straight up and soon reach an unnamed peak at 1500m above sea level. From here we can not only see the path ahead, but also seemingly, the rest of the world. The feeling one gets in a place like this is indescribable, all the hard work is forgotten, you grin from ear to ear and feel infinitely more powerful than all those city yuppies below. With a view like this you rule the world.

The top of Old Man at 1500m provides more epic views and an open-topped barrel to top up drink bottles, however on closer inspection we decide against using the water. From here we descend 400m to Old Man Hut, which sits in a clearing with a small lake at one end. On our arrival a Weka darts off into the bush and soon returns with four chicks for us to feed and photograph. Mountain Radio reception isn't the best so we spend a bit of time setting up a giant stick in the middle of the clearing to create a makeshift antenna. Old Man Hut is well equipped, sleeps six and has a fire and rain water supply.

We say goodbye to our Weka family, head off down into the valley and begin following the river. This part of the tramp features beautiful native bush with crossings over many of the small tributary streams. Unfortunately we had now descended below the wasp free zone and while there aren't enough of them to ruin the tramp, they certainly are an annoyance. Eventually reaching the Goulter River, Lake Chalice soon extends away in front of us. Chalice Hut is at the far end of the lake and on the way we are treated to awesome views of the lake and numerous waterfalls erupting from the bush. On arrival we are glad to find a back door in the hut as the wasps have taken over the front. After a long day we lock ourselves in, clear out the remaining wasps and go to sleep.

In the morning we take the time to check out the lake before making our way out of the bush, which proves to be an easy walk for about half an hour on a wide track. We eventually pop out of the bush onto a road which gives us good views back onto a large part of the Richmond Range. Looking back on the past few days I would have to say it's been an amazing tramp, however I think the highlight would have to be the bird in the car park that had the uncanny knack of sounding like a cat...